Mobile home piers, footings and tie-downs in Tennessee: what the rules require

Short answer: Tennessee requires a licensed installer to set up a manufactured home, following the home's own installation manual (or an engineer's sealed plan, or the federal standards in 24 CFR 3285). Most homes sag because the soil or the piers under them moved, so knowing what a correct pier, shim and anchor setup looks like helps you judge a relevel quote.

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Last checked 2026-11-03. This page summarizes public rules with links to the text. It isn't engineering or legal advice. Your home's installation manual and your installer's license come first.

Which rules apply to your home

Tennessee's Manufactured Home Installation Act sets the order (T.C.A. § 68-126-403):

If you still have your home's installation manual, it is the most specific rulebook for your home. The checklist below uses the federal Model Installation Standards because they are the floor every manual and engineer's plan has to meet.

Wind and roof-load zones in Tennessee

HUD's rules list, by county, the coastal areas in Wind Zones II and III. No Tennessee county is on those lists, so Tennessee homes fall in Wind Zone I, the base zone (24 CFR 3280.305). Your home's data plate, which HUD requires to be posted near the main electrical panel or another easy-to-reach spot (24 CFR 3280.5), shows the wind and roof-load zones it was built for, and the anchoring plan has to meet the loads on that plate (§ 3285.401).

Checklist: what a correct setup looks like

These are the federal minimums from 24 CFR 3285, the standard Tennessee law points back to. Your manual can be stricter, and an engineer can approve a different design.

What to look atWhat the standard saysSource
Clearance under the frameAt least 12 inches between the lowest part of the main frame (I-beam) and the ground, under the whole home.§ 3285.305
Pier spacing under the main framePiers no more than 24 inches from each end of the frame and no more than 120 inches (10 ft) apart, center to center, unless an engineer's design or the manufacturer's manual says otherwise.§ 3285.310(c)
Concrete block piersLoad-bearing blocks at least 8 x 8 x 16 inches nominal, hollow cells vertical. Under 36 inches tall: single stack, long side across the I-beam. 36 to 67 inches tall (and corner piers over three blocks): double, interlocked blocks. Over 67 inches: must be engineer-designed. Mortar isn't required unless the manual or an engineer calls for it.§§ 3285.304, 3285.306
Pier capsSolid concrete or masonry at least 4 inches thick, hardwood at least 2 inches nominal, or corrosion-protected steel at least 1/2 inch, the same length and width as the pier.§ 3285.304(b)
ShimsNominal 4 x 6 x 1 inch shims, used in pairs and driven tight, taking up no more than 1 inch of height. Fill bigger gaps with hardwood plates no thicker than 2 inches nominal or 2- or 4-inch solid block, not a taller stack of shims.§ 3285.304(c)
Adjustable steel piersMust be listed and labeled, installed to the pier maker's instructions, and sized so the adjustable riser sticks out no more than 2 inches. Metal piers need corrosion protection.§§ 3285.304(d), 3285.308
FootingsEvery pier sits on a footing placed on undisturbed soil or compacted fill: 4-inch precast concrete pads, 6-inch poured concrete, layered pressure-treated wood, or listed ABS pads. Footings must be below the frost line unless an engineer designs a frost-protected alternative.§ 3285.312
Perimeter and door supportsPiers on both sides of exterior doors and other side-wall openings 48 inches or wider, and under load-bearing porch posts and factory fireplaces. On double-wides, piers along the marriage line as the manual shows, including both sides of mate-line openings 48 inches or wider.§§ 3285.310, 3285.311
DrainageGround graded to slope away from the home at least 1/2 inch per foot for the first 10 feet, or drains or swales to carry water away.§ 3285.203
Vapor retarderThe whole area under the home covered with a vapor retarder (except under open porches, decks and recessed entries), joints overlapped at least 12 inches.§ 3285.204
Tie-down strapsSteel strapping at least 1-1/4 x 0.035 inch (ASTM D3953), rated at least 4,725 lb ultimate and 3,150 lb working capacity, with corrosion protection.§ 3285.402(c)(2)
Ground anchorsListed or certified for the soil class at your site and installed to their full depth. In frost-susceptible soil, augers go below the frost line. Any sidewall, over-the-roof or mate-line straps on the home must be connected to an anchor.§§ 3285.402(c)(1), 3285.403, 3285.404
Anchoring products sold in TennesseeTennessee's rule requires anchoring systems used under the Installation Act to be approved by the Commissioner, with test data showing each ground anchor withstands at least 4,725 lb.Rule 0780-02-05-.03

What usually goes wrong, and what to ask for in a relevel

When you get quotes, ask each company to put in writing whether it will check every pier, replace cracked blocks and failed shims, add missing piers, and re-tension or replace anchors and straps. Ask for its Tennessee installer license number too; see how to check a license and the cost guide. Then find a company in your area in the directory.

Own a tiny home, park model RV, modular or shipping container home instead? See tiny home foundations and tie-downs in Tennessee.

Frost depth

Footings and ground anchor augers have to sit below the frost line unless an engineer designs a frost-protected foundation. When the local building department (the "LAHJ") doesn't publish a frost depth, the federal rule says to get one from a registered engineer, architect or geologist (§ 3285.312(b), § 3285.404). Frost depth varies across Tennessee, so ask your county building office or your installer what they use.

Sources